Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists equally praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a international community of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its soul: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these narratives and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
